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There are many files on the modern lutherie market for cutting slots in nuts and bridges, but most only became available years after I was doing this work. My background is in goldsmithing, and I simply adapted the tools and techniques I learned as a jeweler to work on musical instruments. Having had the opportunity to try the commercial fine file sets for luthiers, I haven't found any of them an improvement over what I use. Perhaps if I was in a production situation—doing the same setup over and over, day in and day out—things might be different.
Perhaps if I hadn't evolved my own methods with the tools that were available to me back in 's, I'd make use of them. In any case, I can do any slot there is with one of these tools. As in many other realms of lutherie, it's not the tool that does the work, but the person using the tool. I've seen plenty of really bad nuts and saddles done by inexpert hands using the finest tools money can buy. I have drawers full of all kinds of files, but let me start with the essentials: The 3-square jeweler's needle file is triangular in section; it's not square.
I love the term "3-square," even though it makes no sense. The larger is about 6" OAL, with a working surface of about 3". It's a 0 cut, which is fairly coarse within the range of needle files— 00 is coarsest, and the finest is supposedly 8.
I don't believe I have ever seen, much less used, a needle file finer than a 4, which is good for very refined work on gold and platinum. Bone, ivory and so on, usually need an "0" cut. I use this to start larger slots accurately, and even do slots for very heavy plain strings and very light wound strings.
The 0 cut really cuts quickly, and that cut is too coarse for most plain strings on instruments. It makes a good firm first cut, but with the exception of, say, an. Again, the useful size for the luthier's shop are a larger one for strings from low A's on guitar to cellos and a smaller one, which will take you from the typical guitar A down to about.